Field notes.
One letter a week from Puerto Vallarta — where to eat, what's in bloom, who is playing tonight, when to come. No announcements, no promotions.
Neighborhoods · 6 min
Amapas
The quiet side of the Romantic Zone — cobblestone, bougainvillea, and the whole bay at golden hour.
Read →Neighborhoods · 5 min
Zona Romántica
The city's living room — taco counters, rooftop bars, a malecón that is always mid-festival.
Read →Neighborhoods · 4 min
Conchas Chinas
Where the city runs out of road. Tidal pools, cliffside houses, and the best walk in Puerto Vallarta.
Read →Neighborhoods · 5 min
Centro
The old city. The cathedral. The river. Where locals still live and mariachi bands warm up.
Read →Neighborhoods · 4 min
Marina
Big boats, long walks, the quiet side. The one tasting menu worth the cab ride.
Read →Field notes · 3 min
Why October is the month
Rainy season ends, the bay flattens, the whales arrive. For three weeks, the city is yours.
Read →Food · 7 min
Where locals actually eat
Nine places that survived our last five years. Ranked honestly, with the price we paid.
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